BRUSH TIPS:
This is where we provide you with do-it-yourself information as well
as helpful hints on all aspects of painting and the painting business.
If you have a question about painting send it in by email (use the
‘CONTACT US’ page) and we’ll do our best to answer it. The best ones
will be posted on the BRUSH TIPS page.
CHOOSING A PAINTER
A FAIR PRICE
HOW TO PREP
WHAT PAINT TO USE
THE RIGHT TOOLS
THE TOP ONE MILLION PAINTING TIPS OF ALL TIME
CHOOSING A PAINTER
You may be wondering “How will I choose a painter for my home or office project?”
The real truth is that any painter, picked at random, may give you a good
job or a bad job. The biggest company may not always be the best. The
one-man neighbourhood tradesman ‘that everybody loves’ may be great,
but he also may be on the verge of going bankrupt and skipping town.
There is no 100% guarantee.
But there are some common-sense guidelines:
- If they’ve been in business for some years you can reasonably assume
the company is reliable, stands by its products and has the ability to
solve problems resulting in customer satisfaction. The company probably pays
its bills and has learned the business side of dealing with taxes and
insurance etc. Otherwise they would probably be gone by now.
- Look at how they handle communication. Only the very largest companies
have a telephone secretary so be prepared to leave a message. But do they
return your call in a reasonable time? If you make an appointment do they
show up when they said they would? Is it easy to get answers to your questions?
Does the person you are dealing with seem knowledgeable? Honest?
- Do they provide a written estimate? If there is no written
estimate then you have started on the road to big trouble if you hire that person.
Is the estimate dashed off on the spot or does the estimator make detailed notes
and send a proper estimate within a day or so? When the estimate arrives is it
accurate? Do they have your name, address, and phone number right? Painting
is a details trade. Details-oriented people make the best painters. So if
they can’t get the paperwork right then there are chances of other misunderstandings
like the colours, schedule etc.
- Is the estimate detailed? Is it perfectly clear exactly what
is going to be done? Does the estimate use terms and abbreviations you don’t
understand? If you can’t understand it how can you sign it?
- Do they have references of work already done? Not just recent
ref’s but references from some years ago? This is a good way to tell the company
has really been around for a while.
- Can they provide a Clearance Letter from WCB? This means they
are registered and paying their premiums which means you are not exposed to risk
if they have an accident while on site. It also means the company is “all grown up”
in terms of dealing with compliance to gov’t regulations.
- Are they insured for 3rd Party Liability? This is another
safeguard and should be at least $2,000,000 these days.
- A typical warranty is one year on workmanship and this should
be honored whether in writing or not.
- Add to all the above a good reputation or referral from someone
you know and you may just have found the perfect painter for you!
A FAIR PRICE
“How much should a paint job cost?” is a very difficult question.
While most painters work from formulas and the Master Painters Institute (MPI)
offers various methods, the fact is that all paint jobs are unique. The condition
of the surface is a big factor. How hard is it go get at? Sometimes I get a call
to look at a house on the side of a cliff. One job was a house built on stilts
over water. These are extremely difficult and putting paint on the wall is the
least of your problems once you figure out how to get at the wall! Also inside
a house if there is a lot of furniture who is going to move it? And then it all
has to be covered up. And it’s cramped working in there. A textured ceiling is
harder to paint than a flat one. Sometimes they have to be spray painted or else
they will be ruined. What kind of paint is being requested? Paint runs from $10
per gallon (whitewash) to $80 per gallon (top designer paint). Which is best? (Usually
one around the middle.)
TRICKS
A trick used by some tradesmen is to offer a cheap initial price
and then once work has begun start adding in extras. I’ve seen “3 rooms painted
for $299” advertised. That’s cheaper than I pay my men, not including the paint!
So how does that guy survive? You figure it out. (I already have…)
HONESTY
A true honest painter can size up the job right at the beginning
(including the surprises). He will give you a price that really shouldn’t change.
If there is an unforeseen problem it should be reasonable, make sense. Like they
strip the wallpaper and find the walls underneath are a mess (common). But if the
problem is a mistake in estimating then the price shouldn’t change. I have spent
$1000’s to complete a job we mis-estimated, because it was our fault, not the
customers. That just seems honest and fair to me.
SUMMARY
So a fair price could really be determined by this: How much
guarantee do you want in advance that this will be a good job? How much risk are
you willing to take? Ultimately, how much are you willing to pay? The world’s
best painter may be too expensive for you. So even if that is the perfect job
you can’t get it. Ask lots of questions and use common sense to determine what is best.
HOW TO PREP
You work out prep backwards. What do you want it to look like in the
end? If you want walls that look like the side panels of a Ferrari you better be
prepared to spend a lot of dough. That requires a plasterer to skim all the walls
first to a mirror finish.
FILLING & SANDING
Normally you just want to fill in the nailholes and nicks and
spots where tape was ripped off the walls. You use a filler or ‘mud’ available at
the Paint or Building Supply store. Get ‘Lite’ filler or products that say “sands
easily”. You mix it up to a consistency that spreads smoothly but not too thin.
You use a knife or spreader that is wide enough to cover the whole area. When you
first start, like everything else in life, you will not do your best job. If it is
terrible when it is dry then sand it off and try again. Ideally you want the least
amount of excess filler since sanding is messy and the dust flies. (It also kills
your vacuum cleaner if you don’t use a filter bag specified for drywall dust.) Wear
a dust mask when sanding. Be prepared to vacuum every nook and cranny. Keep the door
closed when sanding and keep the window open. Remove everything possible from the room.
Especially all clothes or bedding in a bedroom. Plastic off the mattresses. You will
learn the wisdom of being “frugal with filler”.
Various sandpapers are good from fine to coarse. It depends on
how much excess filler you need to remove. I like those little disposable sponge
blocks – one side is fine and one side coarse. They cost about a buck or so.
WALLPAPER REMOVAL
This in my opinion is the world’s worst job next to septic tank
re-lining. It takes a long time and there is no really good way to do it, despite
all the products on the market. A wallpaper stripper available from a rental place
is an excellent investment and it loosens up the glue which holds the paper to the
wall. It has to then be scraped off using some kind of spatula or scraper. Usually
the walls are all nicked and gouged after so all that has to be fixed up. If you
have a professional painter ask him if you can do the stripping (of the wallpaper!)
prior to painting. This should save you a fortune in hourly charges. The painter
can come in at the end and do the repairs after you have done most of the ‘grunt work’.
If you can’t do this yourself be prepared to pay quite a bit.
CAULKING
Caulking is a mastic (paste) that dries to a flexible but strong
finish. It also works like an adhesive. Normally it is used to fill gaps where wood
trim joins the drywall. Sometimes it can be used for other purposes like making a
waterproof seal in bathrooms. That is a silicone caulk and not recommended for
painting use because paint doesn’t stick to it. But waterproof clear (or coloured)
silicone can be used on countertop seams etc.
You will normally just use an acrylic paintable caulk for the
gaps at joins of wood and drywall. It comes in a tube like toothpaste or a big
caulking tube that requires a special trigger tool to dispense it. Rookies do better
with the toothpaste tube. Use a damp rag to wipe off the mess you make, or your
finger to make a nice seam along a join. You’ll figure it out with time and practice.
I can’t make you an expert instantly!
WHAT PAINT TO USE
This is really a matter of taste. Inside the paint doesn’t do
much except sit there. Washable is great but when is the last time you washed your
walls? Some people tell me they must have washable paint and I say do you wash the
walls and they say “no”. But in kitchen or bathroom obviously the paint should
repel water and also be scrubbable to some degree. Lower sheen paint looks better,
especially if your walls are not perfectly smooth.
DESIGNER PAINT
This will wreck any chance of an endorsement and may result in
a contract on my life. But I do not recommend designer paints. I love their colours!
I appreciate the work they do on providing design tips and seminars at the Home Show.
They sponsor home improvement shows on TV. They put out beautiful magazines and
brochures and the colour samples they provide (fan decks) are fabulous! But all
that costs money. Who pays?
LOCAL PAINT COMPANIES
I use local B.C. paint companies. Through our firms long
relationship with home improvement guru Shell Busey www.shellbusey.com we have
been introduced to Cloverdale Paints www.cloverdalepaint.com and we use their
products for many types of applications. Other products we use regularly are
ICI paints www.icipaints.ca and Envirocoatings www.envirocoatings.com products.
I like the local companies because they are formulated to work best in our kind
of weather and geography, where they’re manufactured. They are close at hand for
any problems encountered. I’ve sent paint back to the lab for testing if something
didn’t seem right. Also the costs are lower due to less transport costs and no
tariffs from importation etc. So I don’t recommend the designer paints unless you
need the tax deduction. Plus you create jobs in your own area when you buy local.
That’s good.
THE RIGHT TOOLS
If you’re going to do it yourself, you’re going to save a bunch
of money (you hope so). Anyway good tools don’t cost much and will make a difference.
BRUSHES
Get a good brush. A cheap brush is $5 - $10 bucks. A good brush
is maybe $20 - $25. I like Purdy and Wooster brushes. Bruno (my Kassel Painting
partner) only likes Purdy but he is old and stuck in his ways. I am working to
expand his horizons. 90% of the time I use a 2.5” sash brush, meaning the bristles
are cut on an angle. A good one will hold more paint. It will make a straighter
line even if you can’t. The bristles won’t fall out and stick to your fresh painted
wall. Use a brush for latex with water based paint and use a brush designed for oil
with oil based paints. Clean your brushes with the proper cleaner – water for latex
and mineral spirits (thinners) for oil brushes. Use a wire brush or comb to brush
out all the excess paint. Hang then vertically to dry with a bucket under them to
catch drips. Save the little cardboard holder-thingy it comes with to store them.
It keeps the bristles straight. Between uses I put this goop on that you get in the
paint store. Like a hand crème for brushes. It makes them easier to clean out. It
also keep them soft, supple and looking younger. Don’t cheap out on your brush. I
mean it!
ROLLER SLEEVES
Roller sleeves (the fuzzy tubes) are real cheap but again a good
one will leave less lint. They are measured in millimeters (mm’s) thickness of the
nap. A 5mm is very thin. It makes a finer finish but holds less paint. It won’t
paint a rough surface because it doesn’t mush into all the cracks and crevices.
25mm would be used for rough stucco walls outside. 15mm is pretty common for its
balance of holding paint and giving a good finish. Clean rollers and reuse them
because they get better and less and less lint comes off the older they get.
ROLLER CAGE
The roller cage or frame is the thing that makes the roller roll.
You can use a cheap one but I like the Wooster because it lasts so long and doesn’t
rusty. A cheap one eventually just seizes up and you wind up sliding paint onto
the wall instead of rolling.
EXTENSION POLE
Even a broom handle is better than nothing. But since you’re
saving so much by doing it yourself then get at least a 2’ – 4’ pole. These screw
onto the roller cage and make it about 1000x easier to roll paint onto the wall.
They reach high and reach low without your arm doing all the work. If you are in
cramped quarters with lots of furniture consider a 1’ – 2’ pole. That should be
enough for a 5-6’ man to reach the top of an 8’ wall right?
DROP SHEETS, MASKING TAPE, ETC.
You can use old bed sheets. Or buy canvas tarps at the paint
store. Get long skinny ones (4’x12’) since normally you are painting a wall,
not a ceiling and you only need to protect the area right under the wall. You
can buy rolls of clear poly to cover the furniture and rugs. You need painters
tape (green or blue) to mask off the edges of carpets or floors when painting
baseboards. Normally 1” tape will suffice. Taping like crazy is a good idea
for beginners, to avoid getting paint over everything. You can keep resetting
the tape until you get it just right. But if you paint all over the floor that’s
a bit worse to fix. Use tape to hold down your poly too. And at night your oil
brushes can be sealed up in poly wrapped with tight tape instead of cleaning them.
That trick is good for about 18 hours, then they start to dry out.
Masking is about the most important thing for rookies. Cover
everything and check it twice. Then you can splatter away and after you clean up
no one will know the difference.
THE FIVE-IN-ONE (OR 6,7,8,9-IN-ONE)
This is that cool painters tool that goes in the little side
holster pocket on your painter pants (oh yeah, you want to get ‘em don’t you?
They’re like $20 – go ahead!) Anyway, what that thing is for nobody fully knows,
but it does a bunch of jobs. The ones I can think of are as follows:
- The flathead screw-driver edge can be used as a screw-driver for light switch screws etc.
- The same edge opens paint can lids.
- Also opens beers.
- The pointy edge can be used to pry out old caulking.
- It also substitutes for a Phillips (star) screwdriver.
- It can be used when cleaning a brush to get all the goop out between the bristles, like a comb.
- It also pokes your leg and rips your upholstery when you sit down, waking you up when you get too tired.
- The round curved edge is for wringing paint out of paint rollers. You scrape it along and it does work well, especially under running water.
- The sharp knife top blade edge can be used as a very small drywall knife, to smooth out filler.
- It can be used to scrape wallpaper.
- It can be used to scrape off old paint runs.
- It can cut a straight line on masking tape.
- It pries up the edge of the masking tape when your finger nails are gone.
- It can be used to pull nails and staples, especially staples from walls.
- The steel plated butt end can be used as a tiny hammer for loose small nails.
- ADD YOUR SUGGESTIONS BY EMAIL AND MAYBE BECOME FAMOUS!
THE TOP ONE MILLION PAINTING TIPS OF ALL TIME
Okay, I actually don’t know one million painting tips. And no
way could you ever read that many, anyway, even if I did. It’s just a humorous
and catchy title, so don’t be writing in about how there aren’t one million,
there’s only 19 or something. At least it made you look didn’t it?!
Besides, I am planning for the future and I’m sure eventually I
will think of a lot more, maybe even a million okay? So here they are, in no
particular order except as I thought of writing them down.
PS: I know it’s not one million.
ONE:
Don’t worry so much about painting. There are more important
things in life, like people. You ought to care more about people than painting
any day. If the job comes out wrong just paint over it. It’s not that big a deal.
You might even like the way it turned out. I think that’s how faux finish was
invented. (Wallpaper though, well there’s nothing funny about wallpaper. That
stuff is hell to get off when you don’t like it.)
TWO:
Use the best paint. Always use Premium grade paint. It has
more solids to it unlike cheap paint (aka whitewash). The more expensive paint
will use fewer coats to cover. It will last longer, be more resistant to scuffs
and probably look better too. Cheap paint is no bargain.
THREE:
Small rollers 4” long and 1” across (called ‘Whizz’ etc.) are a
great tool for hard to reach places (like behind a toilet) and also can substitute
for a brush sometimes. They are fuzzy around the tube and also fuzzy on the end so
you can mush in paint into little tight corners etc. Keep the frame and buy refills
for an economical long-term tool investment.
FOUR:
Figure out what gloss level you need on your paint. Shiny is
more washable but doesn’t look as good because it reflects all the wall defects.
I get the lowest sheen I can for the purpose. I used to use eggshell more but
now I use flat if people don’t intend to wash walls. It looks great, like velvet.
The better high quality flat paints are also washable to a degree too.
FIVE:
Oil vs. Latex- the age old battle. Latex is soooo much easier
to work with and better for the environment, easier to clean up etc. Oil paint
lasts a super long time and is the most durable. But it needs thinners for clean-up
which is horrible. You have to make your own call on this. Mostly we’re leaning
more and more towards latex as is the rest of the world.
SIX:
Use the computer to paint your house: Many of the paint
manufacturers have a program on your website where you can preview colours,
either using a picture of your own house (uploaded) or using a ‘sample’
house on the site. It can give you a good idea of what colours would look
best and be to your taste.
SEVEN:
Sometimes people say “I saw this house and I want the same
colours on my house.” When they tell me the address I go look and find it
is a completely different style of house. For example a modernist rancher with
flat roof and all clean lines will not suit the same colours as a Queen Anne/Victorian.
Common sense. So pick colours that work for your house and if you don’t know how
to do that hire a designer.
EIGHT:
Let me say this about designers. They can make all the difference
on your job. If you don’t know what works then you might pick colours that bring
about dizziness, nausea or other unwanted side effects in family and friends.
These people go to school and learn the basic rules about harmonics and
complementing colours and cool and warm tones and mood and so on. A good designer
can ask you questions about your tastes and lifestyle and make it look like ‘you’
as in “that paint job is really YOU! darling” even when you don’t know how they
did it. They usually know a lot about paint too.
NINE:
Do you have a concrete basement floor and want a cheap option
to jazz it up? Consider using a concrete stain which gives a trendy sort of
industrial/designer look. The stain may require a clear sealer coat to keep dust
from rising up as the concrete dries out over time. You can throw an area rug
over it and create a great look. The stains are specified to be used indoors;
outdoors or both, so check you have the right product. Also when painting a floor
it’s very difficult to fall off. Spilled paint may even help too. Start in the
corner furthest from the door eh?
TEN:
When you paint or clean the outside of your house, use ladder
stand-offs or elbows that attach to the top 2 rungs. They are available where
you’d expect, or go to a ladder manufacturer. They hold the ladder about a foot
away from the wall and make it much easier to work at the top of a ladder. Also
the ladder becomes way more stable and safe.
ELEVEN:
Instead of a regular step-ladder for painting or work around
the house, consider buying a ‘3-Way’ ladder. This is a ladder that goes straight
up like an extension ladder and also can be used as a step ladder. Plus it can
be used on stairs and uneven surfaces because each end adjusts to different
heights. Check it out on the web or your favorite building supply store.
TWELVE:
When you first open a can of fresh paint it’s full to the
top. So how do you get a brush in there and wipe the excess? Well, what you
need to do is since you’ll be cutting (brushing) the edges of the walls and
rolling the middle, you should dump about 1/3 or more of the can into your
roller tray. That way you have a can that is much lighter and has room to wipe off
the excess. If you’re super smart you’ll wash out the empty can (when you’re done)
and save it to use next time as your ‘cutting pot’ meaning you only put about 2-3”
of paint in the bottom and its easier to work a brush with.
THIRTEEN:
By the way, the real pro’s don’t wipe off the excess. They
slap the brush a couple of times against the interior walls of the can, and that
knocks off the excess paint, allowing them to remove the brush and use it without
dripping on the floor. When you get this technique down, people will think you’re
a real pro.
FOURTEEN:
You can paint kitchen cupboards with a paint called Melamine,
like the counter-top material. It is strong and washable. It says you can use
it for counters too. I don’t because it does rub off over time. Do it right
and get a new counter-top if you need to. Or learn to live with the old one.
Melamine is kind of stinky as an alkyd based product. You’ll need thinners. But
it’s a pretty cheap solution to old ugly cupboards.
FIFTEEN:
Blue painters tape is for more delicate surfaces, like ones
recently painted. Green tape is a bit stronger. I normally just use green. If
you are using the tape to make straight ‘cut’ line then after you get the tape
in place go along the edge to make sure it is making firm contact with the wall.
This ensures no paint bleed under the tape. You’ll get a nice clean line.
SIXTEEN:
When you fill in wall defects with mud or filler, you should dab
a little paint over that before you do the topcoat. Obviously the new filler is
very porous. So you want to ‘spot prime’ it, sealing up the filler before you paint
so all the surfaces absorb an even amount of paint. If you don’t do this you will
still be able to see all the spots where repairs were done after you finish painting.
SEVENTEEN:
When you paint glossy walls or trim, sometimes the new paint
doesn’t stick so well because shiny and slippery are synonymous (well not really
synonymous, but they tend to go together). Anyway you need to do something to
increase the adhesion. You have 2 choices, you can sand lightly (called scuff sanding)
or you can apply a bonding primer. That’s a flat paint that makes an Oreo cookie
out of 2 layers of paint with the bonding primer being the white sticky stuff
in the middle. It will make the job last longer. Do not eat the primer – it only
acts like an Oreo.
EIGHTEEN:
Another kind of primer is a blocker primer. This is manufactured
as ‘Kilz’ or ‘Zinzer’ or any names with lots of ‘Z’s in it. They are basically a
shellac. Usually white. They keep things like crayon and ink stains from coming
through. They also block tobacco smoke and other greasy stains. Use them and avoid
doing 23 topcoats where the old stains keep coming through. You can spot prime
or do a whole wall. Some stink terribly. Others are sold as ‘odorless’.
NINETEEN:
Let’s talk about touch ups. These are often a myth. Sometimes
if you have the same can of paint that originally painted the wall you can do a
touch up that doesn’t show. A roller is better than a brush for this. Try to
feather the paint out meaning gradually release pressure on the roller toward
the edge of the stroke until you lift it off the wall. But often you can see
the touch up spot. The reasons are various. The new spot may be cleaner than
the old paint. The old paint may be faded. There may be a sheen difference due
to wear and tear or due to additional build up from the extra layer.
Usually on a touch up the best way is to repaint that whole wall
or ‘plane from corner to corner and your touch up will then be virtually invisible.
TWENTY:
When painting deep colours like reds or bright colours like
oranges or yellows, they won’t cover with 1,2 or even 3 coats. The paint is too
transparent due to the amount of colour tint in a Clear Base. So you need a
special basecoat to go on first. These are grey or white and when applied they
suck up the new bright colour evenly and give a good appearance in minimal coats.
You may think these are more money but it’s not. It can be cheaper than skipping
that step. I’ve seen 5 coats of yellow applied and look terrible. It is like using
a Hi-Lighter 5 times. You’ll never cover up whats beneath it.
TWENTY-ONE:
Can you paint latex over oil? Yes, in many cases. The biggest
concern is that the new paint sticks to the old paint, as covered in #17
above. But normally the flexibility of latex base allows it to stretch and
move, even over old brittle oil paint. Mainly when people would say you
couldn’t paint latex over oil it was because of the shininess of the enamel,
not because “oil and water don’t mix’. Of course you can’t mix latex and oil
paint together and expect good results. That would only apply with cans of wet paint.
TWENTY-TWO:
Did you read our FAQ’s page? That gives another eleven great Tips.
THIRTY-THREE:
Another good way to learn about painting is to watch the design
shows and renovation shows on TV. Also go the home improvement fairs. Finally
many Paint stores and Building Centers offer classes and seminars. They all help.
TWENTY-FOUR:
Paint ceilings in flat paint because it looks best and doesn’t
get much traffic or walking on. Use semigloss in a Kitchen or Bathroom where you
may wash it or to give resistance to water. Also for a designer look, paint the
ceilings the same colour as the walls, unless it is a dark colour. Then it looks
a little too Goth.
TWENTY-FIVE:
If you don’t know how to spray paint you may not want to try
it on your first important job. Volunteer to paints somebody’s barn first for
practice, or a government building, or something else unimportant.
TWENTY-SIX:
NINE-HUNDRED AND NINETY-NINE THOUSAND NINE-HUNDRED
AND NINETY NINE:
If it really seems all too much and you just can’t be bothered with
all these details then hire us to do it! We already know all this stuff. We wrote
the book on it. Plus we do all the work and guarantee the results. You can go to a
movie or go on vacation while we do it. All you have to do is write a cheque. That’s
not so hard is it?
ONE MILLION:
Spend less time on the home improvements and more time with the
people you care about.
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